One place not to be missed when visiting Zharkent mosque is a tree known as Aulie-Agash and thought to be over 700 years old. It's said that your fondest wishes will come true if you make them under this tree.

This mighty old elm has a huge trunk; in order to encircle it, seven people would have to join hands. It's mighty twisting branches bend down to the earth, and the roots spread out for a whole hectare.

There are said to be only three such trees in the world, with the other two growing in China and Turkey. Young elms bend their tops to the senior tree, and if you stand in the middle of the grove near Aulie-Agash, the twisted branches look like the shanyrak, the top of the yurt and - to Kazakhs - a symbol of the home and hearth.

There is a steady flow of pilgrims to Aulie-Agash: some ask their ancestral spirits to heal their illnesses, other ask to be blessed with children and others ask simply for luck and happiness. This place is full of legends, and if you're lucky the guardians of the mosque will share some of them with you.

Close to the village of Aulieagash, near Zharkent, there is a tree said to be possessed of sacred properties. Heading on the main road westwards from Zharkent, towards Almaty, turn right after 16km at the village of Koktal. A further l0 km on you reach Aulieagash.

Turn right in the village onto a metalled road, crossing a fast-flowing stream. After a couple of kilometers, just beyond the village, lake the 200m rough track on your left which leads to a couple of single-story white-walled buildings.

Below these, there is a metal gate onto which have been tied many colored handkerchiefs. A crazy-paved path leads through a patch of woodland to an ancient elm tree, its huge trunk said to be the circumference of six pairs of outstretched arms.

It's dead lower branches trail down to the ground. A path circles the tree; the faithful follow this and then embrace the tree. Some even sleep beside it. There is a small hollow at the top of one of its roots in which water collects. A spoon has been placed here, allowing visitors to scoop out and then drink the water, it is as brown and gritty as you would expect. Locals claim that the other trees in the wood all lean towards this great tree, in deference to it. Many of the trees do indeed seem to be inclining in its direction.